Sub trim allows you to fine tune the rudder or the sheet. At long last I had a boat that would go in a straight line. The clue was in the DISPLAY menu where you could clearly see the rudder was being held one side or the other by the wire. This was causing the problem and a quick realignment solved the issue forever. 3 servos later (well I thought they were the problem) and after a bit of You Tube research, I took the back off the transmitter to find a wire was misaligned and was pressing on the rudder gimbal. It made the boat impossible to sail and I thought it was something wrong on the boat. Sometimes it would centre, sometimes it would centre a few degrees left, then right but always in a random manner. For 3 months my rudder had a mind of its own. Once done whenever you wind the sheet in hard it will alway wind the booms (main and jib) into the same place.ĭISPLAY is useful if ever you have a problem eg, like me with the rudder not returning to centre. This will take you back to the previous menu. Once happy save your settings, save them by pressing and holding down the cancel button. Setup your boat with the sails rigged and adjust the sheeting for downwind with the boom just touching the shroud, then wind in the sheet for on the wind with the boom a few mm off the centre line. The UP and DOWN buttons allow you to adjust the percentage number to fine tune the sheeting. Adjust channel 3 (Sheeting) which you get to using the ON button rather than the UP and DOWN button. They are END POINTS, DISPLAY, SUB TRIM, DUAL RATE/ EXPonential.ĮND POINTS allows you to set limits on the rudder movement and extreme sheet positions (hard on the wind and running) Leave the rudder at 100%. I will only go through the ones relevant to sailing the boat. We are interested in SETUP which you get to by pressing the UP or DOWN key once. When you open the MENU on the Flysky i6, you have two options, FUNCTION or SETUP. You need to press ON to get the screen to light and then you press and hold ON until you see SYSTEM and SETUP. Switch on your transmitter and boat battery and enter the menu. So far so good but how do you do the fine adjustment. The latter (sheet) toggle stays where you put it. I move the right hand toggle left and right to move the rudder which centres automatically and the left hand toggle moves up and down to control the sheet. Once all was connected, basic operation was easy. Note I have removed the switch and added its weight to my correctors in the bottom of the hull. Power to the receiver runs through channel 3 so the receiver battery slot is left empty. Channel 1 on the receiver is reserved for the rudder servo. The switch is connected to the RG winch and then to the 3rd channel of the 6 channel receiver. The 1600 mA LIPO battery is connected to a switch fitted on the bulkhead aft of the foredeck. So following the RG Winch guide, my layout is as follows. Putting the bits (receiver, switch, winch, servo) in the boat was little simpler, although I did have to learn how to use a soldering iron so I could replace receiver style connectors with larger XT30U connectors which are more robust in a hostile environment. Clearly it was designed for flying a plane or helicopter but it took so long to figure out how to setup 2 channel operation when it could have been so easy. When I bought my radio system last year I had a transmitter (Flysky i6) with 4 switches, 2 turning knobs, 2 controls that moved 4 ways between them, 4 fine tune buttons and a menu with initially unfathomable navigation. Other transmitter brands use similar terms to this page. If you know your radio control inside out then please ignore this post. This is a long post as it explains how the radio controls work. How to layout the circuit and components on the boatįailsafe mode. How to use a transmitter menu (Flysky i6) As a player you just want to focus on controlling the controllable - Carli Lloyd
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